Why It Works
- Sweating the aromatics first then adding them back later ensures they don't cook to a pulp and provides texture to the finished soup.
- Cooking the beans directly in the soup contributes to a thick, creamy consistency.
- Simmering the ham hocks for an extended period deeply flavors the soup and yields tender meat.
Ham and bean soup, made with white beans and pork, goes by many names: ham bone soup, navy bean soup, and Senate soup (the latter famously thickened with mashed potatoes) to name a few. Whatever you call it, countless versions abound. Some are brothy and keep the beans more or less intact, while others veer into creamy territory as the beans break down into the soup. My version borrows from both—combining aromatic vegetables, tender whole and puréed navy beans, fresh and dried herbs, and smoked ham hocks—to yield a comforting stew-like soup that’s packed with layers of flavor and texture.
Recipes for ham and bean soup run the gamut in terms of the type of white bean used, with navy, great northern, and cannellini all common. Ultimately, the bean you choose greatly influences the finished consistency. Out of the three varieties, cannellini and great northern beans retained their structure most, producing a soup with visible, prominent whole beans. Once blended, great northern beans, which have the firmest flesh of the three, yielded a soup with a slightly coarse and grainy texture. On the other hand, cannellini beans produced a creamier soup, but couldn’t hold a candle against my preferred choice—Navy beans, which have the softest flesh, break down the most, and give way to the richest, creamiest soup of the bunch.
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To start, I opt for the quick soaking method and skip the tricks for speeding up the bean-tenderization time like adding baking soda to the pot—the ham hocks have to cook for a long time anyway, rendering a bean-cooking shortcut moot. They'll be cooked perfectly by the time the ham hocks are ready. While the beans soak, I sweat a medley of onion, carrots, celery, and garlic until softened to draw out their moisture and flavor. Once cooked, I scrape the vegetables into a bowl for later (this way they’ll add texture to the soup and remain tender, instead of becoming mushy, as everything simmers). Meaty, smoked ham hocks go into the pot next, along with the drained beans, thyme, parsley, bay leaf, and water. I keep the lid on for most of the cooking time to prevent the liquid from evaporating and reducing.
Once the beans are soft and tender, I reserve a portion of the beans, fish out the ham hocks and herbs, then blend a portion into a purée, which will contribute to the soup’s creamy consistency. An immersion blender makes quick work of it but a countertop blender will get the job done too. To finish, I stir in the reserved vegetables, beans, and meat from the hocks and let it all simmer together until the soup thickens and almost resembles a stew.
Finished with minced parsley leaves and freshly ground black pepper, this rich, hearty soup is undeniably satisfying. However, I’d argue it’s even better the next day. An overnight stint in the refrigerator will thicken it up quite a bit, making it even creamier than before.
March 2022
This recipe was cross-tested in 2023 and lightly edited to guarantee best results.
Recipe Details
Ham and Bean Soup
Prep15 mins
Cook3 hrs 45 mins
Soaking Time60 mins
Total5 hrs
Serves4to 6 servings
Ingredients
1 pound (454g) dried navy beans
5 1/2 quarts (5.2L) water, divided
2 tablespoons (30ml) extra-virgin olive oil
1 large yellow onion (12 ounces; 340g), roughly chopped (3 cups)
2 medium carrots (6 ounces; 170g), peeled and roughly chopped (1 cup)
2 celery ribs (5 1/2 ounces; 155g), roughly chopped (1 1/4 cups)
2 medium garlic cloves, roughly chopped
2 sprigs fresh thyme
2 sprigs flat-leaf parsley, plus finely chopped parsley leaves and tender stems for garnish
1 bay leaf
2 1/2 pounds (1.1kg) smoked ham hocks (about 2 to 3 large hocks)
2 cups (473ml) low-sodium chicken stock (or substitute with water)
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
Directions
In a 4-quart saucier, combine beans and 3 quarts (2.8L) salted water. Bring to a boil over high heat. Remove from heat, cover, and let soak for 1 hour. Drain and rinse beans; set aside.
Meanwhile, in a large Dutch oven, heat oil over medium heat until shimmering. Add onion, carrots, and celery, and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 10 minutes. Add garlic and cook, stirring frequently, until fragrant, about 60 seconds. Transfer vegetables to a small heatproof bowl; set aside.
In the same Dutch oven, add remaining 2 1/2 quarts (1.9L) water, along with thyme, parsley, bay leaf, and ham hocks. Bring to a boil over high heat, then lower heat to maintain a gentle simmer. Cover and cook until ham hocks are tender, about 1 hour.
Stir in beans and bring to a simmer over medium high heat. Reduce to medium-low and cook, covered, until beans are completely tender and meat is falling off the bones, about 2 hours, stirring halfway through. Discard thyme, parsley, and bay leaf. Using tongs, transfer ham hocks to a cutting board and set aside until cool enough to handle, about 20 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer 2 1/2 cups beans to a medium heatproof bowl; set aside.
Once ham hocks are cool, roughly chop meat using a sharp knife; discard skin, bones, and fat. Set aside.
Using an immersion blender, blend soup until smooth (if using a countertop blender, blend in batches, if necessary, and start blending at low speed before increasing to high, then return puréed soup to the pot). Add reserved beans, meat, vegetables back to pot, stirring to combine. Stir in 1 to 2 cups of stock or water to reach desired consistency. Return to a gentle simmer over medium-low heat, then cook, stirring occasionally, until vegetables are tender and ham is heated through, about 20 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
Divide soup among warmed bowls, sprinkle with parsley and pepper, and serve.
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Special Equipment
4-quart saucier, large Dutch oven, immersion blender or countertop blender
Make-Ahead and Storage
The soup can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 5 days or frozen for up to 3 months. The soup will thicken after being refrigerated. If reheating, thin as needed with water to achieve desired consistency.
